Fishing for Spring Crappy with Split Personalities

You often hear rumours about anglers who go fishing in spring and catch a hundred Crappy. The first thing we all ask, is where? Early ice-out conditions can be like fishing through the ice. The fish seem to be no where until finally you find them, and then they are in numbers that boggle the mind. Go back two weeks later, and it’s a totally different story. So why are Crappy so hard to find, and what explains their split personality?

Getting the boat out of storage or wetting a new boat for the first time is an exciting start to any angler’s year. Taking the boat for a shake-down cruise in April goes hand-in-hand with searching for spring Crappy. It’s a good fit because finding crappy can take a lot of running about. No doubt, lot’s has been said and written on where to look, but in the end, it comes down to a process of elimination. Once you find them though, its knowledge for life – they seem to be creatures of habit. It’s why everyone is so tight lipped about where to look.

Lawrence holding a crappy

Lawrence holding a Crappy

Northern shorelines in the backs of bays over bottom that is black, or at the mouths of in-flowing streams or rivers are features that are often identified as places to look. Of course, timing is another important factor as nothing turns Crappy on more than direct sun, and the lack of sun can just as quickly shut these little big-mouths down. The problem seems to arise when so many of the seemingly likely spots don’t seem to hold fish. It’s often just the one spot, but which one.

Water temperatures between 40 and 50 F could be considered pre-spawn. Crappy, like most all fish, are still experiencing a slow metabolism and have minimal appetites. They will bite, but prefer slow moving or stationary meals of smaller proportions. Float fishing is the answer because fish need to study their meal first, and they are probably in fairly shallow water. This is also the time of year that Crappy are taking the bite while moving up in the water column, which means the line grows slack when they bite, and doesn’t jerk or tighten. Round bobbers hardly move, but a stick bobber might tip over on to its side. Personally, I use the smallest float that will suspend my bait, cast out, and then reel in as slow as possible, setting the hook when tension is detected.

Later, when water temps warm up to between 55 and 70, Crappy come alive. They become just as difficult to find, but more aggressive when you do. Small 1/16 oz. jigs with 2” to 3” tubes or grubs work well, as do tiny spinners or jigs rigged with blades. A cast and retrieve is all that’s needed. Northern Pike might also be feeding post-spawn, so Crappy will be using cover like wood in the water or early growth weeds to avoid being eaten. Prepare to be bitten off.

A third technique that works on less than cooperative Crappy is a mini drop shot rig. I personally use 4lb braded Power Pro line, a tiny 6mm swivel, and 3-feet of 4lb floral line as a leader. A #6 extra wide gap hook from EagleClaw and a 1/16 oz. tungsten weight from Ultra Tungsten completes the rig. Fish the line a bit slack, and take your time setting the hook. Setting the hook after solid resistance is detected is sufficient and will avoid needlessly pulling the bait out of strike range before the Crappy has properly engulfed the bait.

Last, I never make it a point to count the number of fish caught. I don’t want to fall into that numbers game, and would rather catch some, enjoy the bite for a while, and then get back to cruising the lake to look for more areas where the Crappy are holding up. I always pinch the barb on my hooks as Crappy have paper-thin mouths and there’s no point tearing them a new hole every time I catch and release a fish. If I intend to keep a few for dinner that night, I release the biggest ones, thinking these are the primary breeding females, and keep just enough of the average size males to feed the family.

So, slow fish fast fish, it really comes down to the water temperature in the end. It has nothing to do with their astrological sign. Same fish, totally different experience. Try them both ways and enjoy your first days out on the boat in the new year.

Five Different Drop Shot Fishing Rods and Techniques

I recently received an inquiry from an angler about to purchase his first dropshot rod and was looking for advice on whether he could use a regular rod, or would need something more specific. I had to stop myself several times from pounding out a quick reply, and after reflecting more thoroughly on the question, I realized there’s no one answer.

I personally have and use five different rods for dropshotting. Each is different, and each was adopted over time to address specific needs. And, I’m not even talking about power-shotting large plastics, which is simply a different style of flip-pitching baits. Let me explain.

Dropshot rods mostly all have one thing in common, and that’s a soft tip. Matched up with a strong lower 2/3’s of the blank, and that’s pretty much it. The soft tip is there so you can check for bites without necessarily lifting your dropshot weight off the bottom and pulling the bait away from the target. It also allows fish to engage your bait without the fish detecting artificial or un-due resistance. All of this is based on a stationary bait presentation, which is not always the case.

Dragging dropshot baits behind the boat is never a great idea, but sometimes it’s the only way. Specifically, I’m thinking about rivers with current and being swept along in a boat. Trying to maintain a stationary position is impossible, which is why you instead execute a sort of controlled drift while keeping your line as near vertical as possible. Detecting the difference between bites and what you’re drifting over is crucial. Hard flat featureless bottom and you’re probably wasting your time. Rocks, transitions, drops, etc. are different and often present ambush points for fish. This is when a more typical spinning rod comes into play. Again, a good stiff bottom 2/3’s, but a more typical extra-fast tip found on your worm and jig rods. Heavier weights like ½ or ¾ might also mean going medium-heavy power. Thus, drifting deep over transitioning bottom can be accomplished with any decent spinning rod with the power and action needed to manage lighter 10-15lb braid, heavier dropshot weights and stronger river fish – often Smallmouth Bass.

Dropshotting for Largemouth bass is different than dropshotting for Smallmouth. Largies like a bit of action, which means you can either swing the bait out, let it sink, then work it back to the boat. Or, if fishing beds, target your bed and then apply action to the bait without pulling it out of the strike zone.

Both these styles of fishing can be done with either a medium or medium-action casting or spinning rod that has an extra fast tip. Since you aren’t dead-sticking the bait so much as imparting action, the rod doesn’t need to have an especially soft tip. You will be fishing near structure though, so a rod with sufficient power to control hooked fish is important.

In both the above examples I’m not suggesting fast or moderate action rods as this isn’t a reaction bite that fish slam. It’s more often a lazy bite, or something opportunistic as the baits just right there taunting them. You will need a rod suited to setting thinner gage wire hooks, but setting hooks never-the-less.

Lawrence showing his catch of a walleye to Moby

Lawrence showing his catch of a walleye to Moby

Smallmouth prefer presentations that are as close to still as possible. This is when a true dropshot rod comes into play with its far softer tip section. The rod allows you to check for soft bites without imparting sudden or strong action to the bait. You’re simply checking for wait. No resistance — let it sit. Smallmouth quite often even chew on your bait without your even knowing, for how long, who knows, but the fact that they experience no artificial resistance to their meal choice is important. This style of motionless or dead-sticking presentation is when the true dropshot rods come into play. A good solid backbone for driving home thin wire hooks, and a soft tip for subtle bite detection.

Walleye, on the other hand, are masters at stripping minnows off hooks. When they feel the metal of the hook, they simply back off, clamp down and tug, and off comes your minnow. Dropshotting for Walleye involves one of two approaches, either you leave a tremendous amount of slack in your line so unsuspecting Walleye can slurp in your entire minnow or worm under zero resistance, or you maintain just the barest of tension on the line needed to execute snappy hooksets. My preference in both cases is an extra fast medium-light spinning rod that has a fast rate of recovery. No sloppy tip needed for this sort of fishing, just good line watching focus on the part of the angler. Step up to a medium action rod with a similar action and you can go to a double hook dropshot system, more commonly known as a pickerel rig.

Power-shotting is simply moving your pegged weight from in front of the bait to the tag end of the line. Some even separate the bait from the weight with as much as 3-5 feet. It’s a technique meant to suspend large plastics just below surface cover, or at the very least, above thicker weed growth at the bottom when fish are feeling a little neutral and require some enticing. Either way, flipping rods are still the best option given the size of weights and plastics, and the proximity to heavy cover.

Lastly, what follows is my own version of presenting stick baits wacky style in and around heavy cover. It takes a 6’, 6” or 7’ extra-fast medium-heavy rod; either spinning or casting. 40lb to 50lb braid is recommended along with a 12lb floral leader. The idea is to use a 1/8 or 3/16 oz. pencil weight about 18” below your wacky presentation. The technique entails long casts over shallow submerged weed and then stopping the bait from sinking completely down into the weeds by establishing pressure on the line after the weight has had a chance to make contact with the weeds. By maintaining only the slightest pressure on the line so the weight doesn’t pull free, you can suspend your bait just above the submerged weed tops and keep it in the strike zone longer. Bites can be both aggressive and passive so focus on line movement is essential.

There you go, five – O.K. six, techniques that each call for slightly different styles of rods, and only one references the traditional dropshot spinning rod known for their incredibly soft upper 1/3 tip section. I hope I haven’t blurred the lines too much, but let’s face it; every new fishing technique is little more than a re-imagining of something old, so keep on experimenting and adjusting to fit ever-changing circumstances.

Last Kick at the Ice Fishing Can

The 2016 Ice fishing season had to be one of the shortest on record. December was a bust and January crept in so slow that you just knew it couldn’t last. Even still, I managed to creep out on the ice, poke a few holes, and strike it lucky a bunch of times before the February show season began chewing up my weekends.

In early March my friend Jason Cox drove us up to one of his favourite lakes in the Ottawa Valley region. I know this lake well as my Walleye club has a competitive event here every summer, but this was my first time fishing it through the ice. Joining us for the day was my youngest boy, who loves being on the ice when the weather starts to warm up, and of course, Moby my Burnese / lab guide dog.

We took out the two Frabill flip-over’s. Three seats and wind-breaks for everyone. It was the beginning of March and only 14-inches of ice managed to form.

Lots of Perch entertained my son while Jason and I put down larger bait in hopes of tagging a large Pike or Walleye. Always fun fishing with tip-ups especially now that I’ve started using BlueTipz wireless bite alarms that send a private message to my iPhone or BlueTipz receiver announcing each time there’s action. Otherwise, I’m working the Frabill straight line combos that I’ve come to appreciate so much.

Whether it’s the Frabill multipliers or the single action reels I use for fishing 2lb test, they all have their place. Both allow me to get my line down to the exact depth faster than possible when using spinning gear. The free-spool multipliers are lightening quick, and the single action reels for lighter line and shallower water let me strip off the exact amount of line each time – eliminating the guess work.

Good day for sure. Lots of bites, warm nourishing sun, and great company. Moby had a great day too meeting and greeting the ice shanty dogs that had already laid claim to the lake for the season. Funny how dogs always seem to think they own the entire ice surface for as far as they can see.

Origins and current Applications of The Hunter-Gatherer Jig Angler

Ever wonder where the term “Jig” came from? Hunter-gatherers have been fashioning fish attractors using feathers and fur for thousands of years. These artificial baits would be jiggled on the end of a short strand of catgut. Fish that drew near to investigate would be speared. It wasn’t until much later that hooks were introduced. Early hooks were assembled with several fine bones or thorns tied together in the shape of a “V”. The use of various metals to add weight and flash came much later. Interesting to note, it was primarily women who did much of the early jigging and spearing of fish.

Jigs may seem simple in concept, but the myriad ways they can be dressed and used are countless. From size, weight, shape, colour and the use of hair, feather or plastic attractors, all manner of adornments have been added to enhance their appearance. The endless variety of jig configurations can now make the task of picking one over another daunting.

Just as one wouldn’t use a hammer for every repair job around the house, jig style and presentation method differ widely according to circumstance. The following factors need to be considered when selecting the ideal jig for a specific application. Consider: water clarity, light levels, local forage, current and depth, fish temperament, time of year, and fish habitat and structure.

The kick I get from buying new tackle still boosts my spirits. However, experience and a sore shoulder has taught me well to avoid the temptation of preparing for all conceivable scenarios, as it only leads to a seriously over-weighted tackle bag. Jigs may be small, but in no time can add up to be quite the “boat anchor”.

An easy way to keep a lid on over-stocking jigs is to limit purchases to a handful of colours. Instead of matching every conceivable hatch, go with natural colours for applications in open and relatively clear water, Black with a touch of something more vibrant for low light or heavily stained conditions, and rattles only for low visibility situations. Colour is often the least most important factor. Well-loved jig heads pounded virtually free of paint still often get the job done.

To avoid falling into the trap of becoming a “Jack of all trades and a master of none”, take the time to learn how to present jigs under different conditions. Presentation styles range widely from a simple lift and drop to sudden rips, and everything in between including: dragging, dead sticking, swimming, snapping, popping and twitching. Jigs can be fished directly below the boat or through a hole in the ice, pitched / flipped around visible cover, or fished blind by long-bombing them into open water.

More vigorous horizontal retrieve techniques meant to quickly cover aquatic territory have me reaching for outfits spooled with fluorocarbon line and fast action rods. fluoro sinks the fastest of all lines, and provides the straightest possible connection between the rod tip and your jig.

Deeper more vertical and slower presentation styles that demand rapid and instant hook sets increase the need for feeling subtle bites. Shorter extra-fast rods spooled with braid get the nod. The non-stretch properties of braid give a direct tactile connection to the jig below the boat / ice.

Lawrence holding 2 bass caught while fishing on White Lake

Lawrence holding 2 bass caught while fishing on White Lake

Ultra-light applications generally mean close-in work; making cheaper monofilament lines perfectly acceptable. Micro jigs used with ultralight outfits haven’t the weight to influence line stretch or sink rate, and even a basic ultralight rod will be able to transmit subtle bites without line stretch interfering. Besides, the bit of stretch in 2 or 4 lb line gives that added insurance against breakage.

In general, jig-rod actions almost always lean towards extra fast of whatever power will get the job done. The soft tip aids in detecting bites without imparting unnatural tension to the fish. It just doesn’t feel right to fish when tasting or feeling small bits of potential food with their mouths to encounter resistance associated with something far larger. Jig rods should also have a stiffer backbone ¾ up the blank for hook setting and to turn fleeing fish before they exhaust themselves beyond recovery.

A fast or moderate fast rod comes into play when actively swimming jigs horizontally. Fish first swipe at fleeing pray before making it a meal. The first strike is meant to disable the pray. The second and third strikes are signs of the fish actually eating. A rod with some give allows the jig to be slowed significantly by the first bite without it moving forward as if it possessed bionic strength.

The correct weight of a jig for each application is determined by current or drift speed. Generally, fishing as close to vertical is preferable as it affords maximum control over the jig without having to worry about dragging the lure into snaggy structure, or conversely, the jig drifting harmlessly just feet below the surface.

Penetrating heavy structure calls for heavier weights, as does clear warmer water. The first to break through to where the fish are residing, and the second to tempt active fish into reacting quickly without first having the opportunity to thoroughly size-up your offering.

Under almost all conditions fish will strike a jig as it’s dropping on a slack line. Too much tension, or any tension for that matter, will cause the jig to pendulum back towards the angler as it sinks; imparting the jig an unnatural look.

As a person who SCUBA’s I’m constantly reminded just how little cover there is in vast areas of lakes and rivers. It’s still possible to find fish in these open areas, but count on them being in continual movement. They expect their pray to be doing the same. When fishing over structure slow it down and even pause, but when the lack of tactile feedback from your rod is telling you there’s not much down there, keep moving to improve your odds of crossing paths with actively feeding fish.

Lastly, retrieving a jig back to the boat may seem simple enough, but requires the application of basic geometry. The following holds true whether snapping, jigging or swimming jigs horizontally.

A jig cast out and then raised with the rod tip is going to have more forward momentum than vertical lift. Dropping the rod tip the same amount you just raised it isn’t necessary. Follow the jig down by getting to know the sink rate, and then repeat the motion just slightly ahead of the jig to avoid line tension. As the jig draws closer, use less lift and more follow. By shortening the degree of lift with each stroke, your jig will exhibit a more consistent retrieve profile. By the time the jig arrives directly below, the movement of the rod tip on the lift and drop should be the same. This way when you do get bit you will know exactly how far your jig was above bottom at the time; allowing you to dial in your retrieve and eliminate waste.

Watching your rod tip to maintain a steady retrieve will work against you. Close your eyes and try visualizing what the fish are seeing. Do this, and I’ll guarantee you will become far more adept at imparting a consistent retrieve, even if others observe the movement of your rod as changing with every stroke.

The evolution of jig fishing in the past 100 years is truly impressive. While the concept may seem simple and traditional, learning to fish jigs effectively under a wide variety of conditions has become an art in itself. Take the time to expand your jig fishing skills and embrace a tradition that goes back thousands of years.

Feel the Bite Fishing Videos and Accessible Media Inc.

Accessible Media Inc. broadcasts over cable TV and satellite into over 5-million Canadian households. Andrew Morris, one of AMI’s young innovative producers, contacted me and asked if I would film a series of 2-4 minute TV interstitials for AMI TV. Interstitials are like commercials in that they are played between regular program offerings, but different in that they are primarily for conveying information and not to sell. I agreed, and came up with 20 possible options. We settled on 14.

Over a period of six days I filmed 14 Feel the Bite interstitials – often as many as three in a day. Each interstitial includes me and my guide dog Moby exploring a different way of fishing for a variety of fish species, and conveying general information about fish, their biology and habitat, and environmental pressures that are impacting on their viability. We also included stewardship tips.

The interstitials are now available for your viewing pleasure via YouTube. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did doing the researching, writing and filming. Visit www.LawrenceGunther.com to access the shows directly, or search on YouTube.

AMI TV and Feel the Bite teamed up to produce 14 TV shorts focussing on sustainable fishing using every type of watercraft imaginable

AMI TV and Feel the Bite teamed up to produce 14 TV shorts focussing on sustainable fishing using every type of watercraft imaginable

Fishing Rod Actions and Powers Demystified

As an angler without sight, understanding rod characteristics is extremely important. Just as my white cane conveys information by extending my reach, like a fishing rod, it also serves many other purposes. The following is a breakdown of the characteristics that make different rods better suited for accomplishing specific goals.

Six Functions:

Fishing rods perform six basic functions:

  1. Extend the angler’s arm to launch baits further and more accurately;
  2. Position and manipulate baits to impart action to simulate actual pray;
  3. Visually indicate through movement of the rod tip that a fish has contacted the bait;
  4. Transmit tactile information conveyed by the fishing line down the rods blank to the hand;
  5. Leverage for setting hooks quickly and effectively; and,
  6. Controlling the movement and ultimate capture of hooked fish.

All of the six above functions demand different characteristics in how a rod performs, which is why the design, formulation and building of fishing rods has become a highly evolved form of engineering.

The Perfect Rod

With so much choice it’s becoming quite the challenge to select a fishing rod. Never mind the best rod, or a rod that will meet all your needs, I’m talking selecting a rod that will match the specific fishing style and species of fish you want to target. There probably exists a single rod that could meet many of the fishing applications you plan to pursue, but as with all professions, there exists different specialty tools for a reason.

Technique Specific Rods

Rod manufacturers have capitalized on the different techniques and fish species pursued by recreational and sport anglers to introduce to the market rods for every conceivable application. These manufacturer recommendations can take the guess work out of selecting the right rod, but that doesn’t mean a technique-specific rod can’t be used for more than one purpose. They are a great idea when your local tackle store has plenty of each technique-specific rod in stock, but what happens if they are sold out or never bothered ordering the rod you traveled to the store to try first-hand? Consider the following when combing through your existing rods prior to going out and buying yet another stick to add to your collection.

Rod Power

Lawrence and Moby fishing on the Ranger 620

Lawrence and Moby fishing on the Ranger 620

Power ranges from ultralight all the way up to extra heavy. This refers to the ability of the rod’s blank to lift dead weight. If you’re planning on swinging Bass into the boat weighing up to 6-8 lbs, you want a rod that will be able to perform the job without it bending all the way through to the handle. The rod should curve comfortably under the load you expect to lift and still leave room for a bit more when that trophy fish makes that sudden lunge.

Keep in mind that these power ranges are repeated as you move up the fish ladder. A medium-heavy Bass rod has little in common with a similarly ranked rod designed for fighting Muskie, just as a medium saltwater jigging rod has nothing in common with a medium-powered jig-fishing rod meant for Walleye.

Manufacturers repeat these power ratings throughout their various species-specific rod designs because, if they didn’t, we would have everything from ultra-ultra-light all the way up to extra-extra-extra-heavy, making rod selection even more confusing. Assess a rod’s power according to the size of fish you expect to catch. Don’t get too concerned over the species-specific marketing used by manufacturers to sell rods.

Thankfully, different manufacturers use similar ratings to avoid adding even more confusion when comparing brands. I won’t get into the different proprietary materials, formulations and processes used by manufacturers to differentiate themselves from their competition, but let’s just agree that cheap rods are cheap for a reason, and expensive rods are generally made with the very best. Thus, you are likely to get the most for your money by selecting something in the middle price range $100 to $200).

So why is selecting the correct power relevant? It has to do as much with avoiding breakage to under-powered rods when stressed beyond their tolerance, as it does with the rod’s ability to control fish during the capture process. Under-powered rods are unable to make a significant enough impression on a fish to be able to turn their heads back towards the boat, dock or shore. Rods bent to their maximum have nothing left to aid anglers to land trophies, and put the onus 100% on the reel’s drag.

No doubt, fighting fish with light tackle can be both exhilarating and challenging, but can also overly tire fish to the point of either experiencing heart failure, or unable to recover after the release. Not a big issue if you plan to eat everything you catch, but how often is that the case?

Alternatively, too strong a rod will result in lost fish. We’ve all hooked fish that manage to wrap the line around a solid object and then use their brute strength to simply yank the hook from their mouth. Fish will do the same thing when being played on rods that are vastly over-powered. . The rod should flex at least half way down the blank. Even when catching fish in heavy cover at short distances, you want the rod to give a bit to absorb a fish’s thrusts while you lift and swing the fish out from thick cover and into the boat.

Rod Action

The action of a rod references the degree of taper throughout a rod’s blank or shaft. Moderate action rods bend almost uniformly or parabolically throughout their entire length. Extra fast rods taper much more aggressively in the top third giving the rod a stiffer bottom two thirds in relation to their much softer tip area. Moderate fast and fast are two additional intermediate categories that further differentiate moderate rods from extra fast. Knowing which of the four possible actions to use for different fishing applications will both simplify rod selection, and increase your catch rate.

Moderate Actions

Moderate action rods are generally used when trolling with downriggers. The ability of the rod to bend almost 180 degrees when the line is clipped to the downrigger allows the rod to quickly pick up slack the moment a fish bites causing the line to be released from the downrigger’s line clip. Moderate rods also prevent powerful fish from using their significant strength and aerobatic skills to shake free of hooks, such as when playing Salmon or Steelhead in rivers.

Moderate action rods offer little control over fish, and are commonly used when fishing vast open bodies of water, or rivers where it’s possible for anglers to follow their fleeing fish either up or down stream. They also provide anglers with a more fight-like experience since the bend in the rod means the angler has to pull just as hard as the fish at the other end of their line to narrow the gap, if not harder. Finally, charter guides often select more moderate rod actions for their less skilled paying customers to both lessen the chance of hooks being pulled, and to accentuate the fish fight; leaving customers with an inflated impression of a fish’s actual power.

Moderate-Fast Actions

Moderate-fast rods have much of the uniform bend that moderate rods offer, with slightly more stiffness in the bottom half of the rod. Their purpose is to give anglers the bend needed to effectively use smaller hooks such as those commonly found on crankbaits to catch big fish. They provide enough bend to prevent a fish’s powerful lunges and headshakes from straightening out fine-wire hooks or pulling them from their mouths. The slightly stiffer lower blank section gives the angler sufficient control over where a fish wants to go, by allowing the angler to use the rod as a lever.

The problem with moderate or moderate-fast rods is that they have little ability to transmit the feel of the bite all the way along the rod to the handle. The Bend in the rod absorbs sensations being telegraphed up the line much like springs on a car’s suspension. These are great rods for retrieving crankbaits where fish pretty much hook themselves, but far less effective when an angler needs to detect subtle bites and execute powerful hook sets to sink home stronger single prong hooks.

At the other end of the equation are fast and extra fast rods. These are rods designed more for both telegraphing tactile information to the angler’s hands, and for imparting lightning fast hook sets before fish spit the bait. So what’s the difference between the two?

Fast Action

Fast action rods have actions that are better suited to fishing reaction style baits with larger hooks, the exception being crankbaits with fine-wire hooks. Buzzbaits, spinnerbaits, swimbaits, frogs, spoons, spinners, and swimming jigs, to name a few. The idea being the bait is in continuous forward movement causing pursuing fish to first attempt to injure their pray prior to taking the bait into their mouth to be consumed. The rod needs to bend enough to convince fish that they are in fact impacting the forward momentum of their pray, and that the bait doesn’t possess bionic strength. The fish has to be able to come up from behind, grab the bait and turn back towards their home base.

Fast action rods allow fish to turn 90 degrees to the angler before the angler sets the hook. If the rod is too fast and doesn’t allow this turn to occur, setting hooks is made near impossible since the hook set simply pulls the fish towards the angler before the fish’s body is turned and water resistance can be employed to execute an effective hook set. Without this resistance the fish simply glides forward until it realizes its mistake and releases the bait from its mouth. Setting stronger hooks made from thicker wire requires that fish be positioned at a right angle to the angler so water resistance generated by the fish’s body braces the fish while the hook is being set.

Extra-Fast Actions

Extra-fast rods have slightly thicker blanks 2/3 the way up the blank, and then taper quite quickly at the tip. The rationale behind the thicker blanks is to provide the angler with more instantaneous hook-setting and responsive fish handling abilities.

The thinner more flexible tip on an extra fast rod does two things. One, it works as a visual indicator to the angler that subtle activity is taking place at the end of their line, and two, it prevents fish from sensing an unnatural resistance to the bait when tasting, smelling or feeling with their heads and mouths.

People commonly assume the tip on extra fast rods are better at telegraphing tactile information to the rod hand. True, they are better at doing this than moderate or moderate fast rods, but in reality, their thinner more sensitive tips visually display more than they transfer.

Extra Fast action rods excel at fishing when the presentation calls for slowing things down and fishing more vertically then horizontally. Dropshotting, jigging and most live bait presentations are best accomplished when using extra-fast rods.

Whereas fast action rods excel at setting hooks on fish that are engaged in pursuing moving baits, extra-fast action rods are better suited for hook sets when fishing vertical presentations. Being positioned above fish means they are already positioned at right angles to the angler eliminating the need to allow time for the fish to turn, such as when fish are pursuing baits presented more horizontally.

One or Two Piece

Two piece rods possess a joint section where the rod overlaps. This slightly stiffer area of the rod is commonly believed to reduce a rod’s effectiveness by as much as 10% due to the lack of uniformity in the rod’s bend. This is more problematic with shorter rods then with longer fly rods that commonly possess three such over-lapping connecting sections.

If not properly assembled, two-piece rods can separate under load, twist causing line friction, or break at the joint. However, when properly assembled two-piece rods work quite effectively, and have the added convenience of being able to fit more easily into a vehicle for transport, which reduces the chance of breakage.

Handles

Much can be written about different rod grip styles and handle materials. Synthetic materials often out-last natural corks, both because of rough handling and rod holders on boats, but cork just feels so much nicer to the hand. Graphite rapped handles are the lightest and transmit tactile information the best. Rods with wrapped graphite handles also cost the most, with cork coming in a close second. However, on cold wet days there’s no beating cork for warmth and grip.

Balance

Lawrence's mother standing on the edge of a river fishing with the boys using bamboo rods

Lawrence’s mother standing on the edge of a river fishing with the boys using bamboo rods

Lighter rods mean less fatigue to anglers throughout the course of the day. Of course, this is irrelevant when using rod holders. What’s more important is the balance of a rod once you have attached the reel. With reels getting lighter and lighter rods are having a hard time keeping up. A properly balanced rod and reel should possess a tipping point just ahead of where the reel attaches to the rod. The further up the tipping point, the less comfortable the combination is to use. The muscles in the arm shouldn’t be fighting to hold a rod tip up as this only interferes with the hand’s ability to feel incoming tactile transmissions being sent up the line and down the blank to the handle. Thus, don’t always reach for the lightest reel on the market when selecting a new winch for your lever.

Lure and Line Ratings

What strength line to use with a rod has to do with the application for which you intend to use the selected rod and reel. Think of the size of fish you intend to catch, the conditions you plan to fish in, and choose the line, rod and reel accordingly. The outfit should feel properly balanced in your hand, cast comfortably, and properly control the fish you’re targeting. The reel you selected for the rod should have sufficient capacity to store, retrieve and play out under drag the line you’ve chosen without breaking or binding the line, or even worse, getting spooled.

Lure ratings are slightly more complicated. It comes down to the tip of the rod. The tip should bend slightly after you tie on a bait. Not enough bend and there will be little control in casting accuracy and distance. Too much weight and the rod’s tip will be bent fully, making it difficult for the rod to cast accurately. At most, the rod should engage no more than half way down the blank during the cast.

Once the bait is in the water and slack line taken up, the rod’s tip should still have sufficient room to easily bend either up or down without engaging the power range of the rod. This will allow fish to move in any direction after grasping the bait in their mouths without immediately feeling resistance, but still change the feeling of pressure in the rod’s handle by increasing or decreasing the bend in the rod’s tip. It will also allow the tip to perform to its maximum potential as a visual bite indicator.

Being able to quickly apply personal experience and knowledge when assessing a rod’s characteristics means no longer having to look at the specifications and marketing claims of the manufacturer. By applying the information found in this article you will be better able to select rods that will appropriately meet your specific needs. Who knows, it may just help you keep the number of rods in your boat, garage and basement from expanding into a regular forest.

Blue Fish Radio Now on iTunes!

Some time ago I made the decision to let others take the credit for bringing Blue Fish Radio to the listening audience. I realized that while I could research, organize, record and edit each episode, there were others out there who could do a much better job at promoting the show. These broadcast channels include:

Broadcasters:

WRVO Reno Viola Outdoor Radio

WRVO Radio

WRVO Reno Viola Outdoor Radio

WRVO is a 24-7-365 web streaming service that features over 35 independent producers that all have the outdoors in common. Reno Viola himself has a show. The service can be found on most I-Tune and other podcast internet delivery channels such as Tune in Radio. Blue Fish is repeated four times each week to around 10,000 listeners. For more information about WRVO please visit:

www.renoviolaoutdoors.com

Accessible Media Inc. Audio

AMI Audio

Accessible Media Inc. Audio

AMI Audio broadcasts over cable TV, XM-Sirius, I-Tunes and the web to over 5-million Canadian households and numerous other on-line listeners. They also transcribe Blue Fish Radio episodes for the deaf, and make available the audio programming through a special on-line audio player designed specifically for the blind. Blue Fish can be heard four times each week on AMI Audio. For more information please visit:

www.ami.ca

Outdoor Canada Magazine

Outdoor Canada Magazine

Outdoor Canada Magazine

Outdoor Canada Magazine is Canada’s premier national magazine with a focus on fishing, hunting and conservation. The magazine also operates a popular on-line forum, on-line magazine, and is big into social media. Every two weeks Outdoor Canada features a Blue Fish Radio episode on their website, Facebook page and to over 40,000 Twitter followers, that on average gets re-Tweeted to 100,000 followers. For more information about Outdoor Canada Magazine please visit:

www.outdoorcanada.ca

Spreaker.com

Spreaker

Spreaker

Spreaker.com is the on-line streaming site where all Blue Fish Radio episodes are housed. You can download the episodes as MP3 files, stream live, or establish player links on your own website to individual episodes. More details or episodes can be found at:

www.spreaker.com/show/the_blue_fish_radio_show

iTunes


iTunes

iTunes now features the Blue Fish Radio Show. It’s in Apple format, but the HumanWare Stream portable player has no trouble downloading episodes.

Sponsors

Blue Fish Radio is fortunate to be sponsored by a number of quality companies. It’s with their support that I’m able to produce Blue Fish Radio. A complete list of sponsors can be found at:

www.BlueFishRadio.com

Host/Lawrence Gunther


As the host, it’s my honor and privilege to speak and often meet with many of the brightest minds in the field of sustainable fishing, and fish and water science. I try to bring my own experience and expertise to play during each interview, and my goal is to not get too detailed on any one subject since additional details can always be found on the internet. Rather, I try to keep each interview moving forward and diverse so that it’s both informative and entertaining. For more about me please visit:

www.lawrencegunther.com

BlueFishRadio.com


www.BlueFishRadio.com is where you can access the latest shows, go back through the archives, and download MP3 files for your listening pleasure. Descriptions of each episode are provided along with helpful links.

Catching Largemouth Bass for Christmas

The 2015 winter season just never seemed to be in any great hurry to come. With only five days to go until Bass season closed, my buddy Dave Steen and I decided to give it one more try before he put the boat away.

It was December 10 and, of course, the docs had already been pulled. It meant my having to hold Dave’s Ranger off the rocks while he went and parked his truck. It worked great up until the rope slipped off the foot of his trolling motor and the wind began blowing the Ranger out into the lake. I had no choice but to wade in after it. The water temps were 38 degrees and I only had the one pair of socks and shoes, didn’t stop me though.

We found a nice stretch of moderate depth water just outside of a large bay that held fish, and boy did it hold fish. Largies from 2-3 lbs were ready and willing to snack one more time. Over the next five hours we moved around a bit, caught a bunch of fish, and then called it quits with just enough time to get Dave’s boat to the marina where it was scheduled to be put to bed for the winter. Drop-shot and blade baits were the answer. Nothing to radical, just enough action to peek their interest.

Great, if not a bit chilly, day on the water for sure. We could have kept the boat out for another week (LOL).

Fishing for Rainy-Day Walleye

I always think the fishing is going to be really good when the weather app on my phone is announcing cloud and rain. This especially holds true when the foul weather comes hard on the heels of a stretch of blue sky days. The trick is to get on the lake just as the weather is changing, or at least that’s my theory at present. Who knows what I’ll be writing about weather-wise next time – the theory is sort of a work in progress.

My Walleye fishing partner David Mingie and I hit the local lake on a mid-August day for another of the Ottawa Region Walleye League’s tournament events. There were seven teams braving the forecast – 14 other guys who probably support the same weather/Walleye theory as mine, or just maybe a bunch of guys who fish no matter what?

We launched the Ranger 620 Fisherman FS, fired up the Evinrude E-TEC 250 HO G2, and shot down to the other end of the lake, you know, where all the fish are.

This new G2 has a noticeable extra kick on the hole shot that a guy can really feel, even in the passenger seat. One of the other features I really like with this new motor is the automatic controls for the trim. I no longer have to instruct new-be operators to drop the engine all the way down, or how high to trim up for maximum efficiency and ride comfort. Even if I don’t operate the boat myself because of my lack of sight, I’ve been around boats all my life and I know my Rangers having owned several models now over the past six years. Its true Rangers have a well-deserved reputation as a “point-and-shoot” boat, in that they unfailingly go where you point them; however, I’m a bit of a stickler for getting the trim right, and with the new G2 auto-trim feature, I don’t have to worry about having that discussion with operators any more.

We had a spot in mind to start, and our plan was to begin with bottom bouncers until we found some Walleye. Beginning in a range of water that was between 18-and 25 feet in depth, we each chose totally different patterns of worm harnesses. My choice was a bright Perch pattern on a large Colorado blade that took every gram of my 2.5 ounce bottom bouncer to hold down at our trolling speed of 1.5 mph. David tried something different, or at least that’s what he told me (LOL).

The bottom of this lake is fairly featureless. For the most part it’s a soft featureless bottom, but when you can find those subtle rises that represent a more rocky hard consistency, you have found the fish. The trouble is these harder bottom areas are shaped more like runways then humps, so you need to follow them along until you find the section that the fish have decided to inhabit for the moment.

It took some time, but we finally narrowed down an area where we were catching Walleye. The problem was that they were still scattered and all 12” clones – good enough to get us on the board, but five of these yearlings would only add up to 60” – hardly a winning total. Never-the-less, after plucking four of these volunteers from the bottom, we moved on to find their parents.

About two hours into the day we finally managed to hook up with a decent walleye. We were still bottom bouncing our worm harnesses when I felt my line stop. By that time we had already caught and released a number of jumbo Sunfish and 2-3 lb catfish, but this felt different. I asked Dave to stop the Terrova trolling motor, and that’s when I felt the first headshake.

Slowly I began gaining back line. There were a few minutes there when things came to a stop, but with some gentle pressure, I was able to resume reeling. Dave had his line in and the net at the ready. Sure enough, we managed to net our first big Walleye of the day. A decent fish of 19’ with big shoulders. We put her on the measuring board, snapped a quick pic for the record and another for bragging purposes, and let her go safe and sound.

We now had our five. We needed to cull some of those 12” fish off the score sheet. Dave dialed the I-Pilot on the Terrova back up, checked our track on the Lowrance and set a waypoint, and we were off.

Not 15 minutes later I had a second decent fish on the line. This too felt like a good Walleye so Dave slowed the Terrova, set his rod into one of the two new flush mount stern rod holders Ranger now includes in the FS series build, and got ready the net. I only had the fish reeled in about half way when Dave noticed his rod tip bouncing pretty hard. Yup, double header.

Not sure how we managed it, but we were able to net my Walleye, which measured 20”, snapped a quick pic and let her go. All while Dave was reeling his fish in, and what a beauty. I got her in the net and we were amazed. Not just because of the double header, but the size. Dave’s Walleye measured 22”.

The lake we were fishing lies within a 45 minute drive of Canada’s capital, Ottawa. The lake also has three different RV campgrounds, one of which has over 300 sites. Add to this natural/urban mix a bunch of cottages, and one might wonder how such decent Walleye manage to survive potentially significant fishing pressure?

Personally, I think the new bag limits have helped. The rules state a fisher can keep up to four fish under 14” in length and one fish over 18”. This means fish over 14” and fewer than 18” must be returned so that they have a chance of growing up and becoming breeders. Funnily enough, we didn’t catch a single Walleye that day that fell within the range of fish that had to be returned. For whatever reason however, the population of Walleye seems to be improving. Or, Dave and I just seem to be getting better at catching them. It wasn’t our first time putting together a decent bag of fish on that lake.

We had brought along some minnows that cost us a bit of coin, so we decided to give them a shot. We drop-shotted them while drifting for the next hour. We caught a good two dozen large catfish for our efforts. Dave picked up a Pike along the way, and off one deep point we stumbled into a school of large Green Perch that all measured over 11” inches – the size of Perch that would make great eating if you had decided to harvest them when they first made an appearance, which we didn’t. The only species missing from our day’s adventure were Bass, so I had Dave zip over to another point that was being churned up by wind-driven waves, and managed to tag a couple Largemouth on swim jigs in short order.

Days like this are memorable. Strangely enough you don’t remember how much or hard it rained, or how cool the weather got. No one died of hypothermia and the Ranger’s bilge pumps kept the deck water free. By the way, that new rubberized spray-in deck covering Ranger is now using in the cockpit is fantastic. Good traction, easy on the knees, and a snap to clean up. Drying out the boat also takes a lot less time. Oh yes, Dave and I managed to win the tournament in spite of our still counting two of the smaller Walleyes in our five best fish.

Fishing Streamers for Giant Rainbows Using Touch

As my wife, two youngest, our two pups, and I were well into the second week of our 9-week 16,000 km tour of the western portion of the United States and Canada, there was no way we could drive by Denver Colorado without paying a visit to my good friend Lance Glaser. I first met Lance while co-organizing a fishing event with him in Miami for the No Barriers Summit. We took over 60 people with disabilities fishing, and then Lance arranged to take me out after the Summit concluded for a day of Tuna and Shark fishing. Our paths next crossed when Lance organized a team of competitive fly fishers with disabilities to take part in the America Cup International Fly Fishing Tournament. Five days of intensive perfect fly fishing adventure. This time my family and I were to be guests of Lance and his wife Pat at their home in Brekenridge. We got there just in time for the July 4th celebrations.

One of the first activities Lance had us participate in was a Trout Unlimited sponsored kids fishing derby. My two youngest and I spent a half day trying to tease newly stocked Trout from a large pond along with 70 other kids. My son won a Trout Unlimited cap for his efforts, and my daughter a box of artificial flies. Later that night Lance was hard at work tying up articulating streamers for a surprise he had in mind for me, but his session at the vice quickly turned into fly tying lessons for the kids. They were absolutely amazed by the endless variety of Lance’s fly tying materials, and how he was able to craft both large and tiny creations on hooks. In spite of all the questions, Lance still managed to put some articulated streamers together for our use the next day.

The next morning we went around and picked up a local fly fishing guide and good friend of Lance’s, Shari Topping from Cutthroat Anglers. I had the pleasure of meeting Shari during the America Cup. Shari agreed to join us for a day of fly fishing on a private ranch.

Lance is friends with the owners of this 3,500 acre ranch and has received permission to host fly fishing sessions on the property that involve people with disabilities. Today I would be the only such guest, being completely without sight myself. It’s not uncommon for Lance to organize days on the ranch with as many as 40 Wounded warriors at a time.

My goal was to catch a giant Rainbow, Cutbow or Brown on a streamer using a sinking tip fly line and a six weight fly rod. The only assistance I wanted in realizing this goal was direction on where to stand and cast, and a hand with the netting. For me, streamers or nymphs represent the most likely techniques for fly fishing independently. Dry flies and indicators all require sighted assistance to alert me to the take. I wanted to catch trout using my sense of touch alone. Lance had a slight variation in mind.

Lance already knew I could catch fish. He also witnessed me catch quite a number of decent trout in the past. What he had in mind this time was the capture of a true giant. Something weighing over 20 pounds. Sure, I said, bring it on, all the time thinking why does he always have to complicate things? But, fishing with Lance is always an adventure, and I knew if anyone could pull it off it was him.

I don’t know how many pools and ponds brimming with decent trout we passed by before finally arriving at a spot Lance had in mind. It involved a small point next to strong current. The goal was to work the streamer around the point where the current broke. The trick was that it involved a 50-foot cast next to heavy brush. On my third try I managed to get the streamer into Position to Lance’s satisfaction. I just started working the streamer over the point when the line stopped dead. I set the hook and the fight was on.

The trout I had hooked was a long silver Rainbow that was doing everything it could to put current between itself and me. Amazingly enough, I managed to turn it every time it came close to leaving the pool. By no means did I tire the fish before Shari managed to get it into the net. The fight could have lasted a lot longer, but the goal is to release the fish alive and not to explode their hearts. I have to hand it to Shari for doing such a great job with the net. Unfortunately, when I went to join Shari in the water to hold the fish for a photo, the fish was way more than I expected and leaped from my hands before Lance was able to snap a pick. He and Shari estimated the fish to be close to 25 pounds. It was like holding a torpedo. I was in shock, but quickly managed to snap out of my dismay.

We then marched past numerous other holes and pools stopping only briefly to fish very specific sections, all while ignoring the numerous other fish that never measured up to Lance’s expectations.

Finally, we stopped at a pool that had a large log as a feature. My job was to bring the streamer alongside the log within six inches. It meant a 40-foot cast into the current up-stream and timing my retrieve so the fly would come along the downstream side of the log that lied perpendicular to the current. On my fourth cast I made contact with the brute that called the log home. It was the alpha fish in the pool and occupied the most desirable lie. And, it was huge.

The first thing this trout did was leap over the log, I thought for sure the fight would be over, but nope, the fish swam up-stream before turning after about 75 feet and then coming back downstream along the opposite shore. I then had to turn it, again, bring it back across the river, and into the quiet pool behind the log to be netted. The trout was having none of it however and doggedly stayed out in the main current, but to my luck, never going too far in either direction before turning each time.

This one Shari also netted after I backed up the bank. Being a bit more prepared, and Shari assisting with the lift, Lance got the photo. This fish wasn’t nearly as silver as the first fish, but was incredibly deep in the belly. It too weighed over 20 pounds. I had never held such a large deep-bellied trout in my entire life.

We caught other fish that day. Lance and Shari would set me up on a pool and then move left and right so we could all fish in sight of one another. I’m pretty certain I was able to master the art of working large #4 streamers on sinking tip line in fast current. What a day in deed made possible with the friendship and commitment of two great friends.